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Posted by Tonia Ryan on 4/20/2021 to
Welcome to this Smazy Academy show with Tonia Ryan and ...
Christopher Khorsandi, MD otherwise known as Doc Vegas on Instagram.
This show is dedicated to giving you the best tools and tips when it comes to skincare. Combine, the Doc and I have over 30 years of experience in the skincare and medical industry, and we can't wait to share our best practices with you. So whether you're a skincare newbie or a skincare connoisseur, this show's for you.
We're here to demystify all sorts of things about skincare products. And today we're talking about one of the big ones, right?
This is a biggie. One of the biggest, best ingredients that you can get.
This is in everybody's skincare drawer, right? That drawer in the bathroom where it's like tons of stuff.
This is one that they're not throwing in the drawer. This is one that's sitting out on the counter top to use.
Well, and it's one of those things that's not cheap sometimes. It's a very expensive compound.
Well, there are people that are doing cheap vitamin C's, and it's when they're only putting a teeny tiny drop just to say there's vitamin C in there, which is bad.
It's an interesting compound because you have to formulate it correctly so that it's shelf stable. It has to be in a dark glass bottle or opaque bottle or else the sun degrades it. And it's something that concentration does matter.
Oh, it does. And the higher the concentration, of course, unless we're trying to go too extreme is the better.
Right. So what does vitamin C really do? Well, the first thing is that it's a acid, right? It's ascorbic acid. Right? And so one of the first benefits of it is that it firms the skin.
Firms. Isn't that what we all want? Keep the skin firm.
Well, you don't want loose floppy skin, right? Nobody ever came to my office asking to make themselves more floppy, right?
Just even the words, the combination of a loose floppy skin.
Well, think about it. I mean-
No, none of us want that.
No. And it's not a request that I get very often.
I'm glad.
Yeah. Number two, ascorbic acid or vitamin C, corrects uneven skin tone.
Yeah. Uneven skin tone. I think all of us have had it at one point or another.
Not all.
Maybe not you, Doc. He has amazing skin. And of course it's because of all the things where it's genetics plus what we-
Genetics, self-care and just being careful about what I do.
Yeah. Well, smart means smart.
Smart and easy about it. Right? So look, there are a lot of things. So correcting uneven skin tone, very important because there are some people that there are areas that are just blotchy look, right?
Yeah. And even if you're doing everything right at times, it can happen. So you need something to brighten the skin. And when vitamin C does such a good job at it, I've had so many clients say to me, "Thank you so much for recommending this because everywhere I go, people are saying, "What did you do? Did you get a laser treatment? Did you ... Why do you look so great?""
Well, the next thing, number three is that it improves the hydration of the skin. So anytime your skin looks more, let's say wet, drenched, moist. I hate the word moist. But, you know what I'm saying?
I know. But you look younger [inaudible 00:03:02]
Look, wet things look-
Oh my gosh.
Whatever. They look better. It's like anything that's dry and cracking like the desert, it doesn't look lush. It doesn't look-
That's a great word. Lush. Lush, plump, healthy, hydrated.
Not dry, floppy, and hanging. Right? Something like that.
No, we do not want that.
Vitamin C can do a lot of things. It definitely helps make the skin look more lush, okay?
Absolutely. Absolutely.
And the other thing it does, number four, stabilizes ferulic acid.
Ding, ding, ding, ding, ding.
Right. Exactly. So-
This is our Smazy skincare protect. It's our vitamin C, E and ferulic acid. And that's the reason that vitamin C is in with the ferulic acid because of the stabilization.
Right. The beauty of it, it's safe on almost all skin types, but I will say there are some people that are very sensitive to it.
Well, it's very interesting because sensitive skin is so ... sometimes can be really easy and simple for us to figure out for some people. And then other times it's really tricky. So, it's like the Doc always calls it a lock and key where we figure out what works for you. And then we ... and sometimes we have to minimize this or minimize that.
Well, the body is so complex. I mean, I have clients that we can use certain products on but not others. Certain brands but not others. And there's a bit of a journey kind of like figuring out what works best for each individuals, because our biologies are so complicated, so unique. Right? And they're very complicated lock and key.
Yeah. And then some people could be using a certain laundry detergent that's irritating their skin or a fabric softener. And that's what we try to do is make sure we can eliminate what exactly is the issue if you do have any skin issues.
Yeah. So the other thing that it does, it's brightening. So what do you mean by brightening? It makes the skin look more youthful. It helps to reflect the light in a way that, as we age, the skin loses its ability, it becomes less smooth. Right?
Yeah.
And bright skin, healthy skin has this tone to it that reflects the light and almost looks like it's glowing. So-
That's what I was just going to say you have this glow to you.
It's not like you have light coming out of your face, because if you do, I mean, you're probably a celestial or something like that. But the reality is that when light hits it, you want to reflect in a even way. Uneven skin, skin that's rough in texture, skin that's got really large pores tends to diffuse the light in all different directions, kind of like a matte paint or something like that. It just doesn't reflect back. But vitamin C really helps to make the skin more glossy looking.
Yeah. That's the look I love. I love when I look bright, radiant, all of that.
Right. now, the next thing, it's similar to evening out the skin tone, but it also helps to fade hyperpigmentation, which when we talk about uneven skin tone, not necessarily hyperpigmentation, but hyperpigmentation of brown spots. Okay? And so vitamin C is really helpful in fading the hyperpigmentation.
And all hyperpigmentation has different levels. Some is extreme. Some is just a little bit, some is because of pregnancy and can eventually fade or not.
Right. And then, there's sun damage and its effect. Vitamin C is an antioxidant. But the other thing it helps to do is even out the skin tone from reducing redness. And that's the antioxidant capability of it. That inflammatory oxidation that occurs with sun exposure or just living in a city where there's a lot of harsh chemicals, vitamin C actually mops up a lot of those free radicals and it protects the DNA of the cells. So it's-
Protection is definitely what we want.
Yeah. And the next thing that it does, which is very cool, it actually promotes collagen production, which is the basis of the strength of our skin. There are a lot of proteins that make up the dermis, but collagen is by far the most important one. And these are long bundles of fibers that line up and give our skin that youthful look. As we age, collagen-
Yes. So what happens to those fibers as we age?
Well, they get broken down. They break down from mechanical stress, from oxidative stress, from the body breaking them down itself, from inflammation.
Darn it.
There are things like chronic corticosteroid use that can decrease its ... the amount of collagen in the skin.
So you'll be using those for what reason?
Oh, well, if you have some sort of rheumatoid arthritis, chronic back pain, chronic lung disease like COPD, those patients are on long-term steroids, lupus things like that. But this can help counterbalance some of those things. I like a little bit more vitamin A for those types of counterbalancing of corticosteroids, but that's a different story altogether. But promoting collagen production is really important, because collagen is what makes our skin stay young and keep that thickness to the dermis. So the thicker the dermis, the less it's going to wrinkle which is great.
Well, and I like anything that helps with the collagen that we're putting topically on our face. I know there are people who take the different collagen powders and things like that, but I've heard so many positives and negatives to that. I like more the topical skin care.
Well, the vitamin C is a stimulatory thing.
Yeah.
The other thing it helps to do is reduce some under eye circles. Now, under eye circle is very complex. There's a lot of interplay between gravity, the loss of fat, the loss of covering to the muscle. Sometimes when we see really dark circles in the eye is because there's no fat between the skin and the muscle. And that darkness that you're seeing is actually the orbicularis muscle of the eye, which is purplish red, right?
That's interesting.
Yeah. So if you have thicker skin, right, you're not going to be able to have-
It's better for that?
Correct. The light's not going to penetrate right through the skin. It's not going to be translucent. It's going to be thicker, and it decreases the look of that dark circle. The other thing is, is that the eyes get a little bit crepey and a little bit loose. You get that what we call tear trough. And so, keeping that skin really nice and toned and firm, keeping it thick, I mean, keeps it looking less aged and obviously you look less tired when you don't have dark circles.
Yes.
I mean, the list goes on and on, but the next thing we ... I think we kind of alluded to this before, is that the vitamin C protects you against sun damage.
Well, yes. And sun damage, we're all getting every day even when we're wearing our SPF. I mean, it just happens when you're outside. It depends. Some people are indoors more.
Well, we live in a desert environment. So the second we step outside the door, I mean, we don't ... the tallest trees we have are palm trees, which don't provide a lot of shade, and there's not a lot of high rises here. So it's not like we're going down like Broadway in New York City where-
Only if you live on the strip.
Right. Well, I mean, even that, I mean, you're getting bombarded with sun, but in cities like New York and Chicago-
A lot more shade.
... when you're going through these car doors, where the sun blocked out for part of the day, but here in this environment and in the Southern states, the Southwest as well. I mean, we're really exposed to a lot of sun. So we've got to work to undo the damage. Whether you're driving, walking, just walking to the car, it's all there damaging the skin.
Well, another bad thing too Doc is if people don't live somewhere where it's really sunny, it seems like those three months it is, they literally are just outdoors the whole time-
No. I was just talking about this with somebody yesterday.
Yeah, burning themself ...
I had a lady in, she grew up on the East coast and they're here because of the Raiders, right?
Okay.
And she was saying, "I go back East, I see my friends and it's my God, what don't they do to protect their skin?" And what it is I think is that those ... There's a show, It's Always Sunny in Philadelphia.
Yes. Oh yeah, great show. [crosstalk 00:10:43]
It's actually tongue in cheek because it's cloudy and-
It's always cloudy and rainy.
Not always but I mean-
Well, a lot.
From September to March, April even May, I mean, there's a lot of overcast.
Pennsylvania is not my favorite weather.
It's okay. It's the gulf stream, it's the jet stream. But the thing is that summertime comes, you get a summer house, right? Your rent this, and it's like you got to hit that as many times as possible. I was guilty of it as well. I mean, I would go out there on the weekend because you get 12, 14 weekends in the summer [inaudible 00:11:09]. So you really hit the sun really hard. Especially if you're in the Northeast and you're one of those weekend warriors that goes out and just tries to soak up as much UV radiation as you can on the weekend and get a nice tan, you got to counteract that action with something like [crosstalk 00:11:24]
Absolutely. So important.
The last thing I like to talk about is that it accelerates skin cell turnover.
Yes.
Okay? And so what that is, is that we want to replenish our skin. The skin is every 7 to 14 days turning itself over me. Meaning all that stuff ... It's interesting. What you see ... This always freaks me out. But when you see dust in the air, right? Do you know what that is?
You told me before. I'll let you tell everyone and it totally grosses me out.
It's dead skin cells.
I know. It's so weird to me.
Right. If you like ... So you'll see like in a bedroom, you have a light coming in, in the morning. If you take a pillow, you just do this.
Oh my gosh.
And then you see this plume of dust coming up, right? All that's dead skin cells. And that's because our skin turns over every 7 to 14 days.
Which is actually good because then we are, we're getting the cell renewal. It turns over.
Right. And so vitamin C helps that. And it's just one of the many reasons why we love this product. And we have some products that have it in it. In smazy.com, you can shop for vitamin C based products, but we believe that this is part of everybody's regimen. If you're sensitive to it, there are other things that we could work on.
Sure.
Peptide based things with niacinamide which really help. But vitamin C is part of the armamentarium I would say of most patients.
Yeah. And I'm going to put a link down below in the description of all the products that have vitamin C to make it easy for you to choose. And if you want to know more as well, we have Smazy Academy as well. And then that can really help you know as much as you can about skincare, the ingredients and anything and everything you want to know.
Like and subscribe below, and then find us on Apple podcast. Download our podcast, leave a review and email us at [email protected] with that review. We'll enter you into a $200 monthly draw and for free skincare products.
Absolutely.
So we appreciate your input. We want to hear from you. Thank you guys for listening. We'll see you next time.
Thank you, guys. Bye-bye.
Take care of your skin.
Christopher Khorsandi, MD otherwise known as Doc Vegas on Instagram.
This show is dedicated to giving you the best tools and tips when it comes to skincare. Combine, the Doc and I have over 30 years of experience in the skincare and medical industry, and we can't wait to share our best practices with you. So whether you're a skincare newbie or a skincare connoisseur, this show's for you.
We're here to demystify all sorts of things about skincare products. And today we're talking about one of the big ones, right?
This is a biggie. One of the biggest, best ingredients that you can get.
This is in everybody's skincare drawer, right? That drawer in the bathroom where it's like tons of stuff.
This is one that they're not throwing in the drawer. This is one that's sitting out on the counter top to use.
Well, and it's one of those things that's not cheap sometimes. It's a very expensive compound.
Well, there are people that are doing cheap vitamin C's, and it's when they're only putting a teeny tiny drop just to say there's vitamin C in there, which is bad.
It's an interesting compound because you have to formulate it correctly so that it's shelf stable. It has to be in a dark glass bottle or opaque bottle or else the sun degrades it. And it's something that concentration does matter.
Oh, it does. And the higher the concentration, of course, unless we're trying to go too extreme is the better.
Right. So what does vitamin C really do? Well, the first thing is that it's a acid, right? It's ascorbic acid. Right? And so one of the first benefits of it is that it firms the skin.
Firms. Isn't that what we all want? Keep the skin firm.
Well, you don't want loose floppy skin, right? Nobody ever came to my office asking to make themselves more floppy, right?
Just even the words, the combination of a loose floppy skin.
Well, think about it. I mean-
No, none of us want that.
No. And it's not a request that I get very often.
I'm glad.
Yeah. Number two, ascorbic acid or vitamin C, corrects uneven skin tone.
Yeah. Uneven skin tone. I think all of us have had it at one point or another.
Not all.
Maybe not you, Doc. He has amazing skin. And of course it's because of all the things where it's genetics plus what we-
Genetics, self-care and just being careful about what I do.
Yeah. Well, smart means smart.
Smart and easy about it. Right? So look, there are a lot of things. So correcting uneven skin tone, very important because there are some people that there are areas that are just blotchy look, right?
Yeah. And even if you're doing everything right at times, it can happen. So you need something to brighten the skin. And when vitamin C does such a good job at it, I've had so many clients say to me, "Thank you so much for recommending this because everywhere I go, people are saying, "What did you do? Did you get a laser treatment? Did you ... Why do you look so great?""
Well, the next thing, number three is that it improves the hydration of the skin. So anytime your skin looks more, let's say wet, drenched, moist. I hate the word moist. But, you know what I'm saying?
I know. But you look younger [inaudible 00:03:02]
Look, wet things look-
Oh my gosh.
Whatever. They look better. It's like anything that's dry and cracking like the desert, it doesn't look lush. It doesn't look-
That's a great word. Lush. Lush, plump, healthy, hydrated.
Not dry, floppy, and hanging. Right? Something like that.
No, we do not want that.
Vitamin C can do a lot of things. It definitely helps make the skin look more lush, okay?
Absolutely. Absolutely.
And the other thing it does, number four, stabilizes ferulic acid.
Ding, ding, ding, ding, ding.
Right. Exactly. So-
This is our Smazy skincare protect. It's our vitamin C, E and ferulic acid. And that's the reason that vitamin C is in with the ferulic acid because of the stabilization.
Right. The beauty of it, it's safe on almost all skin types, but I will say there are some people that are very sensitive to it.
Well, it's very interesting because sensitive skin is so ... sometimes can be really easy and simple for us to figure out for some people. And then other times it's really tricky. So, it's like the Doc always calls it a lock and key where we figure out what works for you. And then we ... and sometimes we have to minimize this or minimize that.
Well, the body is so complex. I mean, I have clients that we can use certain products on but not others. Certain brands but not others. And there's a bit of a journey kind of like figuring out what works best for each individuals, because our biologies are so complicated, so unique. Right? And they're very complicated lock and key.
Yeah. And then some people could be using a certain laundry detergent that's irritating their skin or a fabric softener. And that's what we try to do is make sure we can eliminate what exactly is the issue if you do have any skin issues.
Yeah. So the other thing that it does, it's brightening. So what do you mean by brightening? It makes the skin look more youthful. It helps to reflect the light in a way that, as we age, the skin loses its ability, it becomes less smooth. Right?
Yeah.
And bright skin, healthy skin has this tone to it that reflects the light and almost looks like it's glowing. So-
That's what I was just going to say you have this glow to you.
It's not like you have light coming out of your face, because if you do, I mean, you're probably a celestial or something like that. But the reality is that when light hits it, you want to reflect in a even way. Uneven skin, skin that's rough in texture, skin that's got really large pores tends to diffuse the light in all different directions, kind of like a matte paint or something like that. It just doesn't reflect back. But vitamin C really helps to make the skin more glossy looking.
Yeah. That's the look I love. I love when I look bright, radiant, all of that.
Right. now, the next thing, it's similar to evening out the skin tone, but it also helps to fade hyperpigmentation, which when we talk about uneven skin tone, not necessarily hyperpigmentation, but hyperpigmentation of brown spots. Okay? And so vitamin C is really helpful in fading the hyperpigmentation.
And all hyperpigmentation has different levels. Some is extreme. Some is just a little bit, some is because of pregnancy and can eventually fade or not.
Right. And then, there's sun damage and its effect. Vitamin C is an antioxidant. But the other thing it helps to do is even out the skin tone from reducing redness. And that's the antioxidant capability of it. That inflammatory oxidation that occurs with sun exposure or just living in a city where there's a lot of harsh chemicals, vitamin C actually mops up a lot of those free radicals and it protects the DNA of the cells. So it's-
Protection is definitely what we want.
Yeah. And the next thing that it does, which is very cool, it actually promotes collagen production, which is the basis of the strength of our skin. There are a lot of proteins that make up the dermis, but collagen is by far the most important one. And these are long bundles of fibers that line up and give our skin that youthful look. As we age, collagen-
Yes. So what happens to those fibers as we age?
Well, they get broken down. They break down from mechanical stress, from oxidative stress, from the body breaking them down itself, from inflammation.
Darn it.
There are things like chronic corticosteroid use that can decrease its ... the amount of collagen in the skin.
So you'll be using those for what reason?
Oh, well, if you have some sort of rheumatoid arthritis, chronic back pain, chronic lung disease like COPD, those patients are on long-term steroids, lupus things like that. But this can help counterbalance some of those things. I like a little bit more vitamin A for those types of counterbalancing of corticosteroids, but that's a different story altogether. But promoting collagen production is really important, because collagen is what makes our skin stay young and keep that thickness to the dermis. So the thicker the dermis, the less it's going to wrinkle which is great.
Well, and I like anything that helps with the collagen that we're putting topically on our face. I know there are people who take the different collagen powders and things like that, but I've heard so many positives and negatives to that. I like more the topical skin care.
Well, the vitamin C is a stimulatory thing.
Yeah.
The other thing it helps to do is reduce some under eye circles. Now, under eye circle is very complex. There's a lot of interplay between gravity, the loss of fat, the loss of covering to the muscle. Sometimes when we see really dark circles in the eye is because there's no fat between the skin and the muscle. And that darkness that you're seeing is actually the orbicularis muscle of the eye, which is purplish red, right?
That's interesting.
Yeah. So if you have thicker skin, right, you're not going to be able to have-
It's better for that?
Correct. The light's not going to penetrate right through the skin. It's not going to be translucent. It's going to be thicker, and it decreases the look of that dark circle. The other thing is, is that the eyes get a little bit crepey and a little bit loose. You get that what we call tear trough. And so, keeping that skin really nice and toned and firm, keeping it thick, I mean, keeps it looking less aged and obviously you look less tired when you don't have dark circles.
Yes.
I mean, the list goes on and on, but the next thing we ... I think we kind of alluded to this before, is that the vitamin C protects you against sun damage.
Well, yes. And sun damage, we're all getting every day even when we're wearing our SPF. I mean, it just happens when you're outside. It depends. Some people are indoors more.
Well, we live in a desert environment. So the second we step outside the door, I mean, we don't ... the tallest trees we have are palm trees, which don't provide a lot of shade, and there's not a lot of high rises here. So it's not like we're going down like Broadway in New York City where-
Only if you live on the strip.
Right. Well, I mean, even that, I mean, you're getting bombarded with sun, but in cities like New York and Chicago-
A lot more shade.
... when you're going through these car doors, where the sun blocked out for part of the day, but here in this environment and in the Southern states, the Southwest as well. I mean, we're really exposed to a lot of sun. So we've got to work to undo the damage. Whether you're driving, walking, just walking to the car, it's all there damaging the skin.
Well, another bad thing too Doc is if people don't live somewhere where it's really sunny, it seems like those three months it is, they literally are just outdoors the whole time-
No. I was just talking about this with somebody yesterday.
Yeah, burning themself ...
I had a lady in, she grew up on the East coast and they're here because of the Raiders, right?
Okay.
And she was saying, "I go back East, I see my friends and it's my God, what don't they do to protect their skin?" And what it is I think is that those ... There's a show, It's Always Sunny in Philadelphia.
Yes. Oh yeah, great show. [crosstalk 00:10:43]
It's actually tongue in cheek because it's cloudy and-
It's always cloudy and rainy.
Not always but I mean-
Well, a lot.
From September to March, April even May, I mean, there's a lot of overcast.
Pennsylvania is not my favorite weather.
It's okay. It's the gulf stream, it's the jet stream. But the thing is that summertime comes, you get a summer house, right? Your rent this, and it's like you got to hit that as many times as possible. I was guilty of it as well. I mean, I would go out there on the weekend because you get 12, 14 weekends in the summer [inaudible 00:11:09]. So you really hit the sun really hard. Especially if you're in the Northeast and you're one of those weekend warriors that goes out and just tries to soak up as much UV radiation as you can on the weekend and get a nice tan, you got to counteract that action with something like [crosstalk 00:11:24]
Absolutely. So important.
The last thing I like to talk about is that it accelerates skin cell turnover.
Yes.
Okay? And so what that is, is that we want to replenish our skin. The skin is every 7 to 14 days turning itself over me. Meaning all that stuff ... It's interesting. What you see ... This always freaks me out. But when you see dust in the air, right? Do you know what that is?
You told me before. I'll let you tell everyone and it totally grosses me out.
It's dead skin cells.
I know. It's so weird to me.
Right. If you like ... So you'll see like in a bedroom, you have a light coming in, in the morning. If you take a pillow, you just do this.
Oh my gosh.
And then you see this plume of dust coming up, right? All that's dead skin cells. And that's because our skin turns over every 7 to 14 days.
Which is actually good because then we are, we're getting the cell renewal. It turns over.
Right. And so vitamin C helps that. And it's just one of the many reasons why we love this product. And we have some products that have it in it. In smazy.com, you can shop for vitamin C based products, but we believe that this is part of everybody's regimen. If you're sensitive to it, there are other things that we could work on.
Sure.
Peptide based things with niacinamide which really help. But vitamin C is part of the armamentarium I would say of most patients.
Yeah. And I'm going to put a link down below in the description of all the products that have vitamin C to make it easy for you to choose. And if you want to know more as well, we have Smazy Academy as well. And then that can really help you know as much as you can about skincare, the ingredients and anything and everything you want to know.
Like and subscribe below, and then find us on Apple podcast. Download our podcast, leave a review and email us at [email protected] with that review. We'll enter you into a $200 monthly draw and for free skincare products.
Absolutely.
So we appreciate your input. We want to hear from you. Thank you guys for listening. We'll see you next time.
Thank you, guys. Bye-bye.
Take care of your skin.