Welcome to this Smazy Academy show with Tonia Ryan and ...
Christopher Khorsandi MD, otherwise known as Doc Vegas.
This show is dedicated to giving you the best tips and tools for your skin. Combined, the doctor and I have over 30 years of experience in the medical and skincare industry, and we can't wait to share our best tips with you. We've seen thousands of our client's skin transformed. So whether you are a skincare newbie or a skincare connoisseur, this show's for you.
Yeah, we're here to simplify and demystify this world of skincare products. We really want you to be the best version of yourself. We're here to help you figure out your skin and find the products and the things that work best for you.
Absolutely. So in this episode, we're going to be talking about the top five skincare tips for 2021, Doc.
Yeah. Well, it's going to be an interesting ride. Let's see what we got here.
Well, we have so many different things, but there is one that is number one that is super important.
So tell me.
Okay. It's blocking out UV light and blue light. So we're all on our computers or on our phones constantly.
Well, that's blue light. UV lights from the sun. It's damaging to our skin, but blue light is something that I think we're becoming much more aware of. Now, if you look at the physical spectrum of light, you remember your ROYGBIV. Red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo, and then violet.
Indigo, all right.
And then you get into the ultraviolet spectrum, right? And on the other side of it below red, you have infrared. So this is all physics, right? This is the wavelengths of light and energy and they do different things. We are not great at protecting ourselves from UV radiation. Our bodies devolve different mechanisms for protecting us. UV radiation damages our DNA.
That's not good.
And specifically the area that's most susceptible to it is the part of the body that's exposed to UV radiation, which is our skin. And so we have over the years developed products that help reverse the damage, help increase the cellular mechanism of protection and obviously sunblock. Sunblock has been around for quite some time to protect us from UV radiation.
Now blue light is something that we're becoming a lot more aware of lately because we're sitting in front of our TV screens, we're sitting in front of our computer screens-
... our iPads, our iPods.
Everything electronic all day and night.
I phone, right.
We're realizing that something that could be, and is affecting our skin.
Yes, it's got some effect on it. It's not as damaging as ultraviolet radiation, but what it is, is it's damaging to our eyes and it may cause premature aging of the skin. I think I see this in some of my patients who sit in front of a screen all day. These people who are working from home in front of the screen for eight to 10 hours, I've noticed in the last year, and this is just anecdotal, this is not a scientific study, but I've noticed that they seem to be a little less fresh looking.
Yeah. I think all of us have maybe even noticed that with ourselves. I think a lot of it is maybe not as much interaction with people that we've had because we've had a lot more interaction, we're a lot more excited, happy, that gives you a little bit more of the happy-
... of the glow. But-
The other thing that blue light causes a problem with is sleep. So there are a lot of studies that show that blue light affects our circadian rhythms, which are the sleep and wake cycles that we go through. So, the screen, like a lot of people, probably people right now watching this are in bed with their iPhone and their headphones on or listening to us, and they're getting bombarded with this blue light.
And they aren't realizing.
Well, they're not realizing that it's telling our brain to wake up. I had this charger for one of my phones and it had a blue led and I tell you, it was driving me crazy at night because anytime I would turn and there was time, I was a little bit lighter of a sleeper and I would see that blue light and be like, "Okay, I got to wake up. "Wait a minute, it's not morning yet." And so those things definitely affect your skin when you're not sleeping well, you're not repairing your skin at night. So blue light is definitely something you want avoid and recommendations now are to avoid blue light exposure for the hour before we go to bed or more.
I stop all electronics for me are off hours. I try to do minimum of two, but I try to do three.
Yeah. Well, what I like to do to help me sleep at night is I put an audio book on and I'll put it on a little timer for about 15, 20 minutes, doesn't matter the subject. When you're tired and somebody's droning on, it'll put you right to sleep.
It's a great idea.
Yeah, I put it on the bedside table, on the nightstand and I try to keep the phone a little bit away from me just because there's some other studies that show that having the phone close to you keeps you a little bit more anxious and things like that. The little buzzes that go on in the middle of the night even if you have it on silent, there's all these notifications.
I know it's [crosstalk 00:05:09].
So sleep hygiene is very important. But put a little audio book on and go to sleep, stay away from that blue light, protect your eyes, protect your circadian rhythm, get good sleep. Your skin's going to love you for it.
So, one of the ingredients that's really helping with that, that we actually put into one of our products offer our Smazy skincare is niacinamide. Am I saying that right?
Niacinamide, yes. It's one of these essential nutrients that, it's a B3 complex vitamin. It's from niacin and the deficiency niacinamide leads to a problem called pellagra, which is dry, flaky, irritable skin. There's two types of pellagra. One is a nutrient deficiency and one's an inability to use niacin, but it's essential for our skin and it helps to fight the issues that are associated with UV light, blue light damage. What it's doing, there's a lot of different functions, but it even helps with acne to help decrease sebum levels. So you can use a 2% or 4% niacinamide cream and it'll decrease sebum. Sebum is the oil that your skin makes, the waxy oil protection. So when you have acne and you're trying to battle this stuff, niacinamide is a good strategy to cut down on that oil in a very natural way.
The other thing is, it makes us less irritable. And the other thing niacinamide does is that it down-regulates inflammatory markers, something called interleukin. Specifically interleukin 8, which is an inflammatory marker. So these types of things tend to lead to acne and irritation of the skin and it's been shown that niacinamide can decrease the risk of skin cancer, all skin cancers except melanoma.
Oh, geez, well we need that.
Yeah. This is the thing, skin cancer is a huge problem and anything that helps our body protect itself from those problems is a good thing. So B complex, B3 vitamins, very important. And then there's some other things that, in the body, in the mitochondria, different things, different functions, these are essential nutrients. They help the metabolism and the regulatory cycles of ourselves. They're signal proteins and they're also building blocks for energy within ourselves. So, very important product.
That's really important and people really need to think about that. So let's go to number two. Okay. And this is hand lotions and hand moisturizers because we're washing our hands so much lately.
Yeah, we've become really good at this. I think we've trained ourselves, it's amazing. The flu season this year is really nothing. I was talking to a pediatrician who said they saw three cases of the flu from October to January and that's unheard of. The reason for that is that we're wearing masks and washing your hands and that's a very good thing. It tells you that there is a very strong basis to the transmissibilities of different pathogens based on our hands. Now, our hands washing them takes a toll on them.
Absolutely. My hands were getting just so dry.
Dry and chapped.
And I even use a moisturizing hand wash.
Sure. Being in the clinical profession of medicine I have these stations inside and outside almost every room where we're washing with an alcohol based disinfectant. It feels like rubbing alcohol. You spray it on your hand and it has a little bit of moisturizer in it, but yes, at the end of the day after, I don't know, maybe 60, 100 applications of this to my hands, I do feel that there's a need for moisturizing. So this year I've invested a little bit into some hand creams just so my hands don't look like sandpaper.
Yeah. We created a really nice one too with Smazy. It's a little bit exfoliating, as well, so when they're getting dryer, we can get rid of that dead skin that's left there.
So that's nice. Hand lotions, that's something that you have to kind of get into. Some of them are light, some of them are thicker. It really depends on what you need. I think the Smazy one that we have is a nice option for people. What else do we have?
Okay, well, this is number three and we talked about this really in depth, but people are really getting into peptides. So peptide based skincare, right?
Peptide based skincare is just modern scientific approaches to skincare products. Instead of using oil-based and petroleum-based carriers, we're using things that are not only carriers and nutrients for the skin, but also signaling proteins. So these are just really sophisticated ways of delivering the right nutrients and the right signal proteins to our skin. This is high science.
It is, and that's why it was so important to us to put some of the best peptide complexes into our new skin care.
And they're all safe. I would say that peptides have a much lower reactivity than some of the older skincare products on the market, because they're much more natural.
Right? And they're less irritating. They're better for sensitive skin. They give you more moisture without that heavy feeling.
And they're a neutral pH for the most part, right? They don't have an acidity. They basically are similar to the pH of our skin. So they help. They help sometimes in barrier protein formation, things like that.
So I'll make sure down below, too, that I give you all of the information about which peptide creams we have and the best hand lotion, all that.
So you know exactly what can help you. Because skincare is so tricky, Doc. There's so many different products out there on the market
You're telling me.
And then you're like, "Which one should I pick?
I mean, literally there are hundreds of lines and thousands and thousands of products and it's so confusing. That's why we're here. I mean, I think that trying to educate and help you figure out what's best for your skin and give you a little bit of entertainment and figure out what's right for you is our goal here.
We want our patients and we want our viewers to become experts in their own skincare routine and maybe actually help their friends.
Well, of course, because you can become an expert just watching us and you'll learn so much.
We want to teach you to understand your skin and maybe get you to get that same bug that we got, of enjoying the process of skincare, entering into this world, maybe becoming a professional yourself and just being educated about what works.
And where you really can learn the most from us is going to Smazyacademy.com because we really go in depth about everything that has to do with your skin.
Right? We're creating a basic course to take from not knowing a thing about skin, to hopefully becoming a person that feels confident in understanding skincare, skincare products. Maybe help your family, help your friends and maybe actually along the way, start becoming a part of this Smazy Pro Academy.
Right. So we'll go over number four. And this is really important too. It's barrier repair creams or serums, like hyaluronic acid.
Sure. Well HA or hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring substance in the body. It surrounds almost every single cell of our body. But now over the last, I would say two, three decades, taken HA products, hyaluronic acid products, and apply them in many different ways. So, your Juvederm fillers for your lip plumping and you're freestyle
That's all hyaluronic acid, right?
... your RHA, that's all high hyaluronic acid. Those products are basically cross-link, long chain, some are longer than others, products that allow us to plump and fill the lip with a product that's hypoallergenic, that's compatible with the body and lasts for a certain amount of time. And the reason why hyaluronic acids work well on the skin is that they love to attract water to it. They become a barrier. They become like coating your body in this liquid. It's like putting water that sticks to your body. Water doesn't stick, it rolls right off. But with hyaluronic acid, you put this on and it attracts water to it and it holds it to your skin. It becomes like a protective barrier because water is actually a very good insulator. It's a very good protective barrier. Water is one of the most amazing molecules. I nominate it for the most amazing molecule-
... because it does so much, it's an amazing thing. And the more you can get your skin to be hydrated with water, the better you're going to feel.
Yeah. We have some really good hyaluronic acid serums and some great ones from Smazy, too that I'll put below. But let's go to number five, and number five is a big trend and it's for a lot of reasons. It's fragrance-free skincare products.
Well, of course fragrances in the old days were made out of natural products, right? But those natural products are extremely expensive-
... and unfortunately ... There was a thing, it was called ambergris. This came from Wales and it was what led to in the 1800s the slaughter of so many sperm whales and these beautiful gray whales. Because ambergris was a component in a lot of fragrances. It's an oil that's produced by the whales, and sometimes they'll vomit it up, it's in the gland and it ends up on the beach. So this is where most of the ambergris comes from today.
And they would take it from the vomit?
Well, yeah. It's this wax ball that they cough up. It comes from a mucus gland inside their melon inside their head. But this ambergris was used in high fragrances, it still is, but nowadays the only ambergris they use is the stuff that washes up on shore. A couple of years ago, there was a kid that found a basketball size block of ambergris on the beach, it's like a waxy ball. You know how much it went for?
It was like half a million dollars.
Who bought that and why?
Fragrance companies, because you can't get it by killing whales, which is the right thing to do.
Is that like shark fin soup?
That's a totally different issue but yeah, we want to be responsible with the environment. So the fragrances, to circle back, today are not based on natural products. Because number one, we've banned a lot of that type of whaling and hunting. And B, it's just so expensive, so what do companies do? They manufacture synthetic fragrances that are made from, probably petroleum-based or amine based things. Things that are really not meant to be put on or in the human body.
And that's, what's going to give you different issues, like sensitive skin, perhaps make your eczema worse, all of those things.
I know people who get migraines from fragrance products. They trigger biological processes in our body because they're foreign. They're really not anything that we-
Not supposed to be there.
No, they're not from this earth. They're from man-made, laboratory made, they are from this earth, they didn't come from space, but they're not part of the biological ecosystem. So obviously they're going to have an effect and some of these things could be carcinogenic.
Yeah. That's why it was so important when we created Smazy Skincare. Every product is fragrance-free.
We don't want you to walk around smelling like something you don't want to smell like. I don't really wear cologne or anything in the office because what you think smells good the next person may hate.
Doesn't mean other people or they could have allergies and could make someone start sneezing or whatever. I love fragrances that ... I love when people wear perfumes and colognes, but at the same time, it could maybe not [crosstalk 00:16:54].
It doesn't mix with everybody. I mean, there's people, there are patients, I would say that come in with something that's probably new, very nice but my eyes water. I can't wait to get out of the room.
Your eyes, I know. I can imagine you've seen patient after patient after patient, different overwhelming fragrance.
I like clean. I like a little hint. I don't like B.O. Body odor is definitely not what I ... I have a bowl of mints up front, that's another thing.
Oh nice, yeah.
I always like it when people go, there's a little Cajun crawfish place down the street, they make garlic [inaudible 00:17:26]. Every once in a while a patient will come from there. I go, "I know where you just ate."
Yup, you're like, "I can tell."
When you're doing a filler up close-
Yeah you can smell everything.
Look, odors are important, right. They trigger memories. The olfactory bulb in our brain is a very emotional part of our brain. There's things that say our sense of smell triggers more emotions than any other sense.
And memories, yes. And there are fragrances that I smell that remind me of a girlfriend in college. As soon as I smell that, boom, I'm right there with that person and I'm like, "Wow."
My little dogs just got groomed for Christmas and they came home, they sprayed something on them and it reminded me of Grand moms.
I was like, "Oh, okay."
We don't want fragrance in our skincare products. Leave that for your own choice.
You want to use perfume, that's fine. But when it comes to skincare products ... And that's the other thing, if you have fragrance in a skincare product, and then you go to apply your perfume, these smells sometimes clash.
And then your hair, your shampoo, there's always a smell in the shampoo and conditioner, then it becomes overwhelming.
Yeah, I like natural. I like clean. I like fragrance free and I think most people do, too.
So that was great. I mean, there are so many different tips, but I thought those were the top five for 2021. They're the ones that are trending and really important.
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Thank you for watching. Bye-bye.