Peptides In Skin Care


Peptides In Skin Care

Welcome to the Smazy Academy show with Tonia Ryan and-

Christopher Khorsandi, MD aka Doc Vegas.

This show is dedicated to giving you the best tips about skincare. Combined, the doctor and I have over 30 years of experience in the medical and skincare industry and we can't wait to share our best practices with you. We've seen thousands of our client's skin transformed. Whether you're a skincare newbie or a skincare connoisseur, this show's for you.

Yeah. We're here to demystify this world of skincare products. It's not that complicated. It is, but you can get a handle on it and understand it and figure out what's right for you and get the best skin that you can.

Absolutely. So today our topic is going to be, and what we're going to be talking about is why you need peptides in your skincare routine.

Peptides, yes.

Peptides are great.

And that is like the buzz word in the skincare world right now. It's been that way for a while-

It should be.

... and I think that we had a fundamental misunderstanding of what good skincare products were for decades.

Yes. And we just kind of used whatever was on the TV commercial.


The industrial complex of companies that are huge multinational companies, I'm not going to name any of them, but they made these skincare lines that were really, they work to a certain extent, but they had a lot of downsides in terms of the products that they were based on because those products were cheap.

A lot of mineral oil.

Yeah. A lot... very easy to manufacture for bulk distribution and they really didn't take into account what the genetics of our skin was comprised of. And so we had a lot of oil-based things, things with parabens and phthalates and all these industrial chemicals that now we know, cause harm to our DNA.


And we were kind of ignorant to that. Not that we... I think ignorance the right word, because I think it took a couple of decades of research of understanding what the effects of these products were to come up with a better solution.

Well, I feel that it was not enough information. People weren't giving us information. This was all before the internet.

Well, what were you going to do? Go down to your library and take out the... go through the Dewey Decimal System, there were no books?

What about when I would go to the library and I would try to get an encyclopedia and they weren't supposed to be checked out and they were always checked out or they were gone. The information you got was this much.

And I think a lot of people got information from their friends and they also just bought what they saw on TV and on the shelves -

That's the way it was.

... of their cosmetics store or supermarket.

And magazines, magazines were huge back then.

Sure. Well, the thing is that if you know the way the publishing world works, they would do these kinds of spreads on different products, but really the company was just paying for those.

Of course.

Product placement.

Yeah, or then you do an editorial and-

Oh, yeah.

... buy an ad spot and they do an editorial about your product.

Exactly. So when you see a product being featured in one these magazines, you have to know that that company paid for that because these magazines really function on a sort of pay to play basis.


So maybe they bought a couple ads in the magazine or they paid for that specific article to be written.

Right. So we didn't have any information. That's why it was so important I felt like what we're doing here with Smazy Academy is giving as much information as we can so the consumer knows what they're even using.

Well, we're trying to be as transparent as possible.


In this day and age, you can go and look at whatever we're saying, look it up and see what we're saying, whether it's true or not, and we try to stay very unbiased in terms of what product companies and things that are out there. But the reality is there some things that aren't good for you and there are some things that are better for you. And so peptides definitely are one of those things that over the last, I would say decade have become a much more central part of the skincare manufacturing process.

Yes. They're the building blocks of our collagen and elastin.

Well, peptides are proteins, right?


And so proteins are made up of amino acids and different combinations. And the body, I mean, proteins are so complex. There are so many different variations of these different proteins and peptides, but we know that there are certain combinations of amino acids that lead to protein folding that reads to something being called a peptide.


That's beneficial to our skin. And the reason why it's beneficial is that they are compounds that help to build collagen.


They help to build elastin. Some peptides act as precursors.

Well, what is it? What is a precursor?

It's a building block.


It's like a building block for collegen.

All right.

You can't make collagen out of thin air, right?


It doesn't come from sunlight. We don't photosynthesize like plants, right. We need to take proteins in to generate collagen, right.


And so peptides are one way of doing that. You can drink peptides, you can apply them topically. The other thing is peptides act as signal proteins, right? Cell biology is one of the most exquisitely complex and beautiful things in this universe. There is a microscopic x-ray crystallography picture of the cell recently that I saw, and it looked like as complex as any galaxy that you would see in astronomy.

Wow, that's cool.

There's so much going on inside of our cells. So many different apparatuses working and functioning. It's a miracle looking at this and even more amazing, and that's just on a microscopic level, you're not able to see on the molecular level, unless you get into real like x-ray crystallography, but you see these molecules and there's millions and millions of molecules, different types of things that trigger different reactions in the body.

A peptide may enter a cell or land on the surface of the cell, hit a receptor and trigger a cycle that up-regulates your collagen production. It may up-regulate your elastin production. It may tell yourself, hey, protect your DNA better, make more proteins that put the caps on your DNA. The things called telomeres. There's so many ways in which peptides are functional. What we're doing today is making products that have these signal proteins, these building blocks for good and healthy cells, good and healthy skin, right in the bottle. That way we're not having to go through all these different steps of producing it ourselves. We're pushing the process along, signaling the cells to do what's right for yourself.

I went to the Doc and I said, Doc, let's think of what are the most important things that we need in our skincare brand?

We want to have things that help us to restore our collagen, to smooth out the wrinkles and help build elastin. We want things that are healthy for us, that don't cause side effects, that are basically the parts of the manufacturing process, just broken up and applied to the skin.


I think a peptide-based skincare line is very important because this is taking high levels of scientific knowledge, distilling it down, placing it in a bottle, allowing you to apply it on a daily basis and getting the most bang for your buck.

Yeah. That's what was so important to me, especially when it came to moisturizers, because if you have dry skin or mature skin, having peptides in your moisturizer helps it, not only does everything feels so different, you can tell a difference when you're putting on moisturizer that has peptides, or it just has, I call it fillers.

Right, and the peptide stuff feels more organic, doesn't it?


It feels like a tissue.

I don't feel like I have cooking oil or something thick or heavy, actually when it goes on, it's more of a rich feeling instead of just this.

Right, slimy.


Some of the skincare products like of the old days just felt like cake batter, right?


They just felt heavy and gross and you had to rub it. And sometimes you have to wipe it off because it was just, it just would not absorb.

Shine everywhere.

Right. And then along came those peptide science and peptides are so complex. If you change one amino acid, you could change the whole function of the peptide. As we learn more and more about these peptides and we research this and look and see what they trigger inside the cells. Right now, the ones that we use are ones that are known to be healthy and beneficial for our skin. But this is the beauty of peptide science is that we're constantly innovating and finding new things that help us to restore our skin, protect our skin, protect the skin DNA and all sorts of beneficial processes. It's almost like a building block to the skin nutrition now.

That's it, that is a great example because that's exactly what it is.

Yeah, well think about when were kids, they taught us about these food pyramids, right?

Yeah, I remember that.

Yeah, you had water, you had dairy, milk, eggs.

Carbs, protein.

Right. Well, this is kind of like one of those parts of that pyramid.


Veggies, yeah. Well, we're, we're nourishing our skin, right.


You could put a carrot on your skin, but it's not going to do anything.

Not going to do anything.

You're not going to get that beta carotene into your skin as much as you rub it, but we're going to break those things down and make it into a formulation that can be absorbed rather than you ingesting and digesting. Now, there are drinks, there are peptide drinks out there for skin.

Yeah, there are.

There's this stuff that you could buy at the health food store to put in your shakes. There's a whole world out there now, but it's important to understand that these are analogous sort of proteins that are already in our body, that we're either building more collagen from, or we're just stimulating ourselves to behave properly.

So it helps to definitely have a good diet. You can use some of those things you just talked about where you were having drinks or whatnot, but nothing for the skin. When you're eating, of course, you're getting all the nutrients and everything, right so that shows on your skin.


But when you're actually putting a topical peptide on your skin, I think that it makes a huge difference. It's still not.

It's a direct application.

That's right.

Rather than having the food that you eat, being digested, goes through the liver and then be transported to the cells.

Yes because you can only get so much still, right.

So we're adding a little bit of a boost to our skin.

That's exactly what it is. And when we created this Maddie skincare line, we had sulfate, we wanted everything to be sulfate-free, paraben-free, fragrance-free.

Yeah, we want all these industrial chemicals that are basically used to clean your tires, out of our skincare products.

Yeah. That was super important to us. And then of course adding as much peptides as we could where it made sense to put them in because we still have the vitamin C's, which are great. The ferulic acid it's super important as well, but peptides is something that is equally as important.

Yeah. And I think that we'll see as skincare progresses, there's always something new, there's always new products that come along. And I think that the area that we're going to see the most growth in is in the peptide portion of the market.

Yeah. And from what I'm seeing too, as you, as we said before, in another video, some vitamin C's at time, if you have sensitive skin.


May [crosstalk 00:11:21].

Well, it's ascorbic acid, it's an acid.

Right, that's right.

Any sort of acid has a pH component to it that may irritate the skin. Some people are more susceptible to it than others.

So the peptides are less irritating from a lot of things that I've been seeing with the different clinical trials.

Very low irritation level. You have very few, you don't have as many, it's not zero.

Nothing is zero.

Nothing is ever zero, there's always going to be a person that's going to be sensitive to something and that's the beauty of the human tapestry is that we are all so different. But the peptides are much less irritating and rather than using a harsh chemical to hammer the cells into doing what you want it to, we're just kind of like, hey, here's your peptides, here's what you need.

I remember when I was younger, I think I was maybe teen-ish. I got something from, I can't remember what brand it was, but I remember it feeling like Ajax. Do you remember the brand Ajax?

Of course, yeah.

It was like this powdery bleachy feeling.

It's what you scrubbed your sink with.

And I got a product that was like, I was like, this feels the same. What is this? So the evolution of skincare [crosstalk 00:12:35]

Everything gets better, material science, automobiles, computers, skincare products have gotten way better.


Yeah. You know, everything is in our phone now, but you know, this is the way things work. You know, we get better with time with better understanding, better science and that's how you get better. So when you're looking for a product, you know, look for things that are paraben-free phthalic-free, sulfate-free.

Gluten-free even, our brand is, whether you have a gluten allergy or not. It's still gluten free.

Well, I mean, gluten is an issue for so many people and they're not even aware of it.

I totally agree with that because I have a gluten allergy and it used to give me horrific anxiety when I ingested gluten. And there's so many people with anxiety issues and they have no idea that it could just be that piece of bread that they ate at lunch.

Yeah. It's an interesting science and we're only at the tip of the iceberg right now.

I know.

So gluten aside, peptides are what you want to look for in your products.

I have a whole list of all of the products that have peptides per skin type they're on And then here below in the description, I'll give you some links as well, so that you can figure out what works best for your skin. And like we've said before, it's all trial and error of which products work the best for you, but we help minimize that as much as possible.

Right? We want to make this easy for you. Take a look at the information that we provided for you in terms of peptides, the products that have it. Shoot us a question if you have it. Let us know what you want to know about peptides, if there's some more in-depth stuff that you want us to delve into. If there's a specific peptide that you have curiosity about, we're more than happy to get you the information and distill it down, digest it, so to speak and make it so it's understandable.

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Absolutely, so thanks much for watching. Again, please make sure you like and subscribe and check us out on our next video.

See you guys.